Departing from California at Last
Emeryville Station
Our Amtrak journey began at Emeryville Station in California. The train was scheduled to depart at 8:25 a.m., so we stayed at a hotel near the station the night before. After a light breakfast, we took an Uber to the station, which was about a 10-minute ride.
When we arrived, we were surprised by the cold wind — even though it was the middle of summer! We had brought light jackets, but the chill from the San Francisco Bay caught us off guard. I realized that my mom, especially at her age, really could have used a down jacket.
Lesson learned: even in summer, it’s best to be prepared for the cold. (We ended up buying one at UNIQLO in Chicago!)
The station has a small shop where you can grab coffee and snacks. One hour before departure, you can check large luggage at the counter, just like at the airport. But keep in mind that once it’s checked, you won’t have access to it until the final destination.
Since we booked a private room, we decided to bring our suitcases on board. However, fitting two suitcases into such a tight space — and trying to open them or grab things from inside — was no easy task!
There is a shared luggage area on the train, but space is limited and there are no locks. It’s just open shelving, so we were a little concerned about security. We noticed that experienced travelers had packed all their essentials into small bags they could easily carry into their rooms. It was such a smart and efficient way to use the space, and we quickly understood why they did it that way.
When boarding, passengers in Coach Class line up to choose their seats. But with a private room, your room number is assigned ahead of time, so there’s no rush to get on.
Our train left about 30 minutes late — but that’s just part of the Amtrak charm, right?
And with that, our epic journey across America, lasting more than 50 hours, was finally underway.
What Is a Roomette?
Our Roomette was located on the lower level. It had two seats facing each other, a curtain, and a door with a lock, so we felt safe and had a sense of privacy. At night, the seats turned into the lower bed, and the upper bed folded down from above.
Honestly, it was very small — but that made everything super easy to reach, which was actually pretty convenient.
One surprise was that while we were having dinner, a staff member came by and prepared the beds for us. They set up both bunks with blankets, mattress covers, and pillows, which was really helpful.
In the morning, while we were at breakfast, they came back and converted the beds into seats again.
This kind of service was such a nice touch. Like at a hotel, we left a small tip by the pillow to say thank you.
How We Spent Our Time on the Train
The dining car and observation car are located on the upper level.
The observation car is open to all passengers, but since there are limited seats, it can get crowded. Sometimes it’s hard to find a spot, or you may need to share a table with others.
Dining on the Train, A Taste of the Journey
The dining car is primarily for First Class passengers. Coach Class passengers may be allowed if there are open seats, but during our trip, it was always full with First Class guests only.
Meal times are scheduled, and a staff member comes around to the private rooms to take dinner reservations. You choose a time slot then and there. Tables seat four people, so if you’re traveling as a pair, you’ll likely be seated with others. If there are any changes or delays, announcements are made over the intercom.
Each table had a small rose, and enjoying a meal while watching the scenery go by made us feel a bit fancy. To be honest, we didn’t expect too much from the food, but we were pleasantly surprised — everything we tried was delicious.
The steak at dinner was especially popular. Meals included drinks like wine or beer and came with dessert, making it feel like a full course. Even the waffles at breakfast were tasty and satisfying.
The dining car after hours. There was a warm atmosphere with decorations for a crew member on their last shift. Everyone loved them, such a friendly presence on board.
Relaxing time in the observation car
The observation car offers some of the most stunning views on the train.
It may depend on the route, but on the California Zephyr, there was no Wi-Fi available.
Oddly enough, that absence of connection made the experience feel even more special. Time seemed to move at a slower pace, gently pulling us away from the rush of everyday life.
I spent my time glancing at the map now and then, but mostly I just sat back and enjoyed the vast landscapes passing by outside the window.
There was something truly luxurious about doing nothing but watching the world go by.
This, I realized, is exactly what train travel is all about.
In the observation car, everyone was doing their own thing.
Some families were playing cards at the big tables, groups were chatting and laughing, some people were reading, and others just stared out the windows, taking it all in.
I even saw an elderly couple quietly enjoying the view, and a group of Amish travelers too.
Every now and then, the conductor would make announcements like, “We’re following the Colorado River now,” or “The Rocky Mountains are coming into view,” which made the ride feel even more special.
Since the dining and observation cars have shared seating, by the second day we started recognizing lots of familiar faces.
People remembered our names, and we’d say hi, swap stories about where we were going, why we were traveling, and even things like our families or hometowns.
Mealtimes especially became great chances to talk. We got tips on places to visit, heard some funny travel stories, and had a lot of good laughs.
What surprised us most was how many other mother and daughter pairs were on board.
Maybe the staff actually keeps that in mind when arranging the shared tables.
Those little encounters along the way made the trip even more memorable — it was one of the really fun parts of traveling by train.
Train Delay
At one point during the journey, the train stopped for about two hours due to a reported incident involving a person on the tracks. The announcement came quickly and was not very clear, so we did not catch all the details. After an inspection confirmed there were no issues with the train itself, we eventually got moving again. I remember feeling so relieved when we did.
That night, maybe in an effort to make up for lost time, it felt like the train was going faster than usual. Of course, I am sure it was still within safety limits, but from the upper bunk, the shaking was intense. I usually track my sleep with my Apple Watch, and that night my sleep was definitely lighter than usual.
For the first time, I really appreciated the safety strap on the bed. Now, it is just another story to look back on and smile.
A Refreshing Break in Denver
About 35 hours after we left California, our train arrived at Denver Union Station!
We had about an hour there, which meant we could step out onto the platform and take a little stretch.
One of the crew members who had served us in the dining car finished their shift here. It was actually their last ride before retirement, which made the moment feel even more meaningful. The mother and daughter we had gotten to know over several shared meals also got off in Denver. We gave them both a warm hug goodbye.
Even though we had only spent a short time together, those conversations over meals came back to me as we said farewell. It was a bit emotional parting.
From the platform, we could see Coors Field, home of the Colorado Rockies, which gave us a small taste of Denver’s atmosphere. After more than a day and a half of mostly sitting, eating, and sitting again, I was definitely feeling the need to move. Even just walking around the platform felt refreshing and helped me reset for the next leg of the journey.
Arrived in Chicago!
It took 19 hours to get from Denver to Chicago. Once we crossed the Rocky Mountains, the scenery changed dramatically. We rolled into wide open plains, stretching as far as the eye could see.
In Nebraska, endless farmland filled the view, the kind of landscape that feels distinctly Midwest.
In Iowa, barns and windmills scattered across green pastures made the scene feel like something out of an old movie. By the time we reached Illinois, the scenery became more urban. We saw factories, neighborhoods, and eventually, the skyline of Chicago rising in the distance.
After 51 hours on the train, we finally arrived at Chicago Union Station right on schedule. It felt unreal to think we had spent two and a half days on board. Even with a few delays along the way, we still pulled in at 2:30 p.m. sharp, just as planned. That was a surprise!
Our route had taken us through, California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and finally Illinois.
Total distance: about 3,900 kilometers (2,438 miles)
Total time: around 52 hours (2 nights, 3 days)
A Collection of Scenic Views from the train
Canyons in the Rocky Mountains, dry open land in Nevada, and endless farmlands across the Midwest. No matter where we were, the view from the train window looked like a painting.
Here are just a few of the beautiful moments we captured along the way.
Coming up next, “Arriving in Chicago, A Pause in the Long Journey”
Coming soon
