Have you ever wanted to enjoy mountain-top views without having to hike? And what if you could enjoy those views from a delicious café? Ōyama Afuri Shrine offers just that kind of experience!
What is Ōyama?
People from Kanagawa Prefecture may already know about Ōyama, a mountain located at the southern tip of the Tanzawa mountain range with an elevation of 1,252 meters. It’s a popular spot for hiking and a power spot. Notably, Ōyama Afuri Shrine (Ōyama Afuri Jinja), located in the heart of the mountain, is known for its long history of natural worship and rain prayer rituals, making it a well-known symbol of Ōyama.
Incidentally, I’m originally from Kanagawa, and I remember visiting Ōyama on a school field trip in elementary school.
How to Get There
From Odakyu Line’s Isehara Station, take a bus to “Ōyama Cable Station”
From Shinjuku, it’s about 60 minutes by express train on the Odakyu Odawara Line to Isehara Station. From Isehara Station, it’s about a 30-minute bus ride to “Ōyama Cable Station.” Buses run 2–3 times an hour on weekdays and 3–4 times an hour on weekends.
When you arrive at the Ōyama Cable Station bus stop, it already feels like you’re on a field trip to a quaint mountain town.
Then, take the cable car to Afuri Shrine Station
From the bus stop, it’s a 15–20 minute walk up a slope with plenty of steps along the way, known as “Koma Sando,” to the cable car station. You’ll pass souvenir shops and tea houses along the way, making it a scenic route to enjoy. Ōyama is famous for its tofu dishes, and you’ll spot signs for inns and tofu restaurants here and there. On weekdays, it’s quiet, with an atmosphere that feels like something out of Spirited Away’s shopping district.
When you reach the cable car station, you’ll notice the drivers wearing aloha shirts – so refreshing! The cable car takes about 6 minutes to reach Afuri Shrine Station, climbing about 280 meters in elevation. It’s nice to get to this point by cable car!
After getting off the cable car, it’s a 5–10 minute walk up the steps to Shimosha Shrine. Along the way, there are viewing points and a purification fountain. Located about 700 meters above sea level, Shimosha offers excellent views and stays cool even in summer.
Finally, the Café “Saryo Sekison”
As you continue past the lower shrine, you’ll find the café Saryo Sekison. On the way, you pass a rest area with signs for shaved ice, but the café is located even higher up with no signage, giving it a hidden, almost secretive feel. You might easily miss it if you didn’t know it was there beforehand. When I finally reached the top of the stairs and saw the modest noren curtain quietly appear, I couldn’t help but feel delighted.
This time, I chose a terrace seat to enjoy the breathtaking view. The indoor seating also has a cozy, retro atmosphere with gentle wood tones, perfect for relaxing. When the large glass doors are open, you can also take in the beautiful scenery from inside. You can gaze out over Sagami Bay and, on clear days, even catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji. Just sitting quietly brings a soothing sense of peace!
The café’s specialties are the ‘Goshinsui Coffee,’ brewed with sacred spring water, and the ‘Matcha Masu Tiramisu.’ The sacred water from Ōyama Afuri Shrine is rich in minerals and subtle sweetness, adding a unique depth to the coffee. With a Michelin two-star rating, the taste was truly satisfying.
Ōyama is known for its quick-changing weather, earning it the nickname ‘Afuri-yama’ or ‘Rainfall Mountain.’ That day, too, a light misty rain suddenly began to fall, making me feel as though I was experiencing the sacred grounds of a ‘Rain-Praying God.’ Although it was a scorching day, the sky soon cleared, and I was lucky enough to enjoy the stunning view while cooling off!
Saryo Sekison doesn’t have a restroom for visitors, so you’ll need to use the public restroom within the lower shrine grounds. I didn’t know this beforehand, so I found myself wandering around the grounds, glancing around and wondering, ‘Where could it be?’ (laughs). This is likely a thoughtful measure to ensure the sacred water source remains preserved.
A relaxed visit at the lower shrine
The café is just a stone’s throw from the lower shrine. Taking in the magnificent views, enjoying a leisurely visit to the shrine, and savor some sweets makes for a truly luxurious experience!
The main shrine (upper shrine) of Ōyama Afuri Shrine is located near the summit, about an hour and a half to two hours on foot from the lower shrine. The route includes steep slopes and stairs, but it’s a hiking path I’d love to challenge someday.
Let’s plan and go!
It’s good to check the bus and cable car schedules in advance to plan your visit comfortably. There are quite a few steps, but leisurely walking while enjoying the natural surroundings is truly refreshing. Being able to experience a power spot, breathtaking views, and Michelin-starred sweets all in one trip (and mostly via cable car!) is a rare treat. If you get the chance, I highly recommend a visit!
Ōyama Afuri Shrine
https://www.afuri.or.jp/en/
Café “Saryo Sekison”
https://www.afuri.or.jp/en/sekison/
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